The athletic brand debuted its largest female-centric ad campaign.
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The athletic brand debuted its largest female-centric ad campaign.
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Country singer Sarah Darling is putting her signature touch on boots by Durango.
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Read the top news and feature stories from the week beginning July 28, 2014.
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The president and chief merchandising officer of Belk Inc. will succeed Brendan Hoffman on Aug. 25.
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The co-founder of Palette Studio talked to FN about creating a brand to complement footwear designers.
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The movie features up-and-comers Aubrey Plaza and Dane DeHaan.
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The designer juxtaposed his latest collection against a 1980s Lamborghini.
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The company cited the sluggish U.S. retail environment as a negative influence on the period.
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Converse teamed with Missoni on a collection of shoes that go on sale August 4.
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The Italian eyewear manufacturer and designer have decided to renew their global eyewear licensing agreement.
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Strong performances were noted in the company’s Luxe and Active Cosmetics Divisions during the period.
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Thomas Pink had issued proceedings after Victoria’s Secret launched its Pink brand in the U.K. in 2012.
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Chinese gold jewellery demand fell for the first time in eight years in the second quarter.
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German unemployment dropped more than expected in July and retail sales climbed in June.
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The U.S. Department Of Homeland Security warned retailers about a type of malicious software attacking point-of-sales systems, dubbed "Backoff."
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A government spokesman noted that retail sales registered another year-on-year decline in June.
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The combined retail chain will total 93 stores across 26 states and the U.S. Virgin Islands.
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In the role, Trypus will be responsible for Bulova’s sales and marketing initiatives.
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Chris Pratt, Zoe Saldana and Vin Diesel attended the screening at the Crosby Street Hotel.
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The French retail conglomerate is switching hands as part of its financial restructuring.
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The retailer is expanding its direct-to-consumer options.
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3i to examine strategic options for luxury lingerie firm.
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Revenues fell 13%.
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The Danish jewelry brand’s stock declined after investors sued over a 2011 profit warning.
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Cornell starts Aug. 12.
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WWD has also learned that Robert Hanson, former ceo of American Eagle Outfitters, has been named ceo of the luxury jewelry brand.
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Most fashion and luxury stocks were also trending down in late-morning trading Thursday.
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The Greek designer will present his new collection there during the upcoming Milan Fashion Week.
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The retailer suffered on higher expenses as business slowed in the wake of April's sales tax hike.
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The German group confirmed its full-year guidance.
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Tax and personnel expenses bit into the bottom line as sales rose 3.7 percent.
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The sporting goods firm said it now expects a mid- to high-single-digit rise in currency-neutral sales in 2014.
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Improved profitability in Europe and Latin America made up for continued weakness in China.
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3i to examine strategic options for luxury lingerie firm.
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Revenues fell 13%.
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WWD has also learned that Robert Hanson, former ceo of American Eagle Outfitters, has been named ceo of the luxury jewelry brand.
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The Danish jewelry brand’s stock declined after investors sued over a 2011 profit warning.
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Cornell starts Aug. 12.
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Most fashion and luxury stocks were also trending down in late-morning trading Thursday.
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The Greek designer will present his new collection there during the upcoming Milan Fashion Week.
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The retailer suffered on higher expenses as business slowed in the wake of April's sales tax hike.
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Bottega Veneta is holding an event in Saint-Tropez to celebrate one of the brand’s iconic designs.
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Authentic Brands Group has acquired four sports-inspired athletic footwear brands from Payless Holdings for an undisclosed amount.
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From florals to lace to colorblocks, these celeb shots prove that there’s nothing boring about classic black and white.
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Her biggest project thus far as Bazaar’s global fashion director will be unveiled on Aug. 19.
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The tanzanite is the comeback stone of the season as designers bring the moody blue rock back into the limelight in a number of tantalizing ways.
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The star of "Guardians of the Galaxy" is not only an invincible Space Age pilot, but a sharp dresser with a newly chiseled body as well.
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Here are some highlights of the spring season.
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The men’s wear designer has teamed with Hewlett-Packard and Gilt to create a luxury watch with smart technology.
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Lifted by growth in all key markets and business channels, the Italian e-tailer continued its upward trajectory.
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Fitness brand will also bring stores to California.
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Yoox, Kering, Michael Kors lead sector down.
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Ducere Technologies has produced the first footwear that directs wearers via vibrations.
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The company purchased assets from Payless Holdings LLC, such as Airwalk.
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German accessories firm moves into Paris, London.
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Some stars can’t get enough of a certain style shoe. Take a look.
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The CEO of his eponymous company launched Adrianna Papell footwear two years ago. Find out what he's been up to since.
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Lifted by growth in all key markets and business channels, Yoox SpA continued its upward trajectory in the first half.
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The brand’s founder and artistic director is said to pursue “personal projects” but will stay minority shareholder.
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The French conglomerate announced it was buying Swiss luxury watch firm Ulysse Nardin.
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She will start on Sept. 2 and will report to Art Peck, president of Gap Inc.'s growth, innovation and digital division.
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The financing could value the company at $10 billion.
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The company saw a gain in consumer sales.
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The photographs by Philippe Jarrigeon will go on show at the retailer’s flagship store in Paris.
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Investment comes as e-commerce race heats up.
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The French luxury firm will become the sole presenting sponsor for the foundation’s upcoming award galas in Los Angeles, Monaco and New York.
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WWD recently caught up with the newly minted Sports Illustrated swimsuit-issue model in between takes on the annual Pirelli Calendar photo shoot.
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The beloved companion of Charlie Brown and his sister will once again be given a makeover with the reprisal of the “Snoopy in Fashion” project.
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At the upcoming trade show, the unofficial slogan for exhibitors might be: Let’s get physical — and fashionable.
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Fitness brand will also bring stores to California.
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Ducere Technologies has produced the first footwear that directs wearers via vibrations.
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The company purchased assets from Payless Holdings LLC, such as Airwalk.
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Some stars can’t get enough of a certain style shoe. Take a look.
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German accessories firm moves into Paris, London.
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The CEO of his eponymous company launched Adrianna Papell footwear two years ago. Find out what he's been up to since.
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Lifted by growth in all key markets and business channels, Yoox SpA continued its upward trajectory in the first half.
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The brand’s founder and artistic director is said to pursue “personal projects” but will stay minority shareholder.
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The French conglomerate announced it was buying Swiss luxury watch firm Ulysse Nardin.
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She will start on Sept. 2 and will report to Art Peck, president of Gap Inc.'s growth, innovation and digital division.
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The financing could value the company at $10 billion.
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The company saw a gain in consumer sales.
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The photographs by Philippe Jarrigeon will go on show at the retailer’s flagship store in Paris.
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Investment comes as e-commerce race heats up.
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Fashion and retail stocks were also mostly in negative territory.
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Simon Ungless has been tapped as executive director of the university's School of Fashion.
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Renée Snelson, design director at Luxury Rebel, is taking her art form to a new level on the streets of New York.
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The unit is set to open in fall 2015 in the heart of the city’s downtown and part of the Magnificent Mile.
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Retailer looks to sharpen digital game through acquisition.
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The Italian luxury women’s cashmere firm is developing a strategic business plan for the North American market.
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The sustainable basics brand this month launched a new Web site and online shopping destination with enhanced shopping features.
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The company has raised $10 million in a Series B financing led by Burch Creative Capital.
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Panelists included Loomstate and Rogan founding partner Scott Mackinlay Hahn, Patagonia's Cara Chacon and Kevin Cassidy of the United Nations.
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Tisha Collette, owner of Collette Consignment, tells FN about her favorite pair.
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Free cash flow for the quarter was $60 million.
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The Index is up for the third straight monthly gain.
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The company said it will work to grow tuxedo rentals, made in the USA suits, custom suits, preppy merchandise offerings and national brands.
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Britain's second largest apparel retailer, raised its guidance for annual sales and profit for the second time in three months.
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Flipkart has raised $760 million since its launch and the recent funding round is the largest for an Indian e-tailer.
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Boston-based Rue La La, which has attracted interest from online shopping site Gilt Groupe, has hired JPMorgan Chase & Co to advise a potential sale.
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CAIRO, Egypt — There was a time, long before the recent revolution but still within living memory, when this arresting and chaotic city was the most fashionable place in the Middle East. Glamorous Egyptian musicians dominated the Arab music scene while the country’s film stars reigned supreme as style icons across the entire region. From far and wide flocked the great and the good to the Belle Epoque splendour of Cairo’s trend-setting boutiques on Fouad Avenue, a decadent promenade designed in the sumptuous French style.
“Fashion and luxury retail boomed here in the 1940s,” says Susan Sabet, the Egyptian founder of pan-Arab fashion magazine Pashion. “Until the nationalisation of private businesses, the famous Sednaoui department store founded by Elisa Sednaoui’s ancestors even sold Christian Dior. And my own husband’s grandfather was the importer of Bally at the time, for example.”
“Cairo’s couturiers and tailors, mainly of Greek and Italian origin, made the most beautiful gowns for local high society as well as for the affluent of the region. The Egyptian cotton trade was flourishing and supplying the world with the best quality available. Then, the decline began with the 1952 Egyptian Revolution.”
Since then, Cairo has admittedly lost much of its lustre. But Egypt looms very large in a region where, for the greater part of 5000 years, it was either the dominant power or the ultimate prize. As the most populous Arab country and one of the Middle East’s most diversified economies, its influence is still palpable all around the world.
Yet what makes Egypt alluring for most of the business bigwigs is not its enchanting past or even the debt we owe it as a cradle of human civilisation. It is the country’s vast potential as a market of 90 million consumers of all income levels who, due to the political rollercoaster of the past five decades, remain largely underserved, underestimated or untapped altogether.
Revolutionary Times
Today, Egypt is emerging out of the shadows of yet another painful revolution, but, this time, it appears that the fortunes of the fashion industry might be on the rise rather than the decline. Local designers, manufacturers, retail moguls and other leaders seem remarkably optimistic considering that Egypt is still effectively on the brink of bankruptcy as it clambers to secure international loans. Not to mention the fact that so many of its social, religious and political problems remain both unresolved and highly combustible.
“You know why? The revolution showed the real people from the false. It was a filtering process that created, well, less contamination,” says Ahmed Farid, a pioneering figure of Egyptian fashion and luxury. “The great thing now is that, for the most part, it was the clean money that survived the revolution. You see, before that, some local fashion brand partners made their deals through dubious relationships and money laundering. But now, nobody who’s not really professional will be able to continue.”
Farid began his career in the 1970s when he co-founded the Baraka Group to import sunglasses such as those made under Luxottica’s YSL and Armani licenses. At the time, optics were the only designer-branded category allowed under Egypt’s protectionist regime. Restrictions on imported apparel and textiles were only lifted about a decade ago. But in the meantime, Farid expanded into accessories by becoming the Egyptian franchisee of Bvlgari through his subsidiary Bustan when the jewellery category was liberalised in the late 90s.
Another reason that Farid and some of his peers seem so optimistic at the moment is that there is faith – or at least hope – in the new government’s ability to turn around the economy. Although it has only been a couple of months since former military general Abdel Fattah el-Sisi was elected president, Farid believes that two of Egypt’s business blights, corruption and bureaucracy, will become more manageable under his tenure.
And he’s not alone in his confidence in the new regime. Laila Neamatalla is an Egyptian designer who founded her business, Siwa Creations, 13 years ago in order to connect international labels like Ermanno Scervino with specialist seamstresses and embroiderers in the remote Siwa Oasis region of the Egyptian desert.
“President el-Sisi and his government are working very hard on overcoming the crisis and I believe we’ll succeed soon. Business was very difficult for us during the revolution [and] we had to cancel export orders,” she concedes. “But although the market has been hit hard, only a few businesses are actually closing down. Business is recovering for us now, thanks to the optimistic mood in the air.”
Perhaps not surprisingly, the revolution has also compelled some local players to improve and streamline their operations. Azza Fahmy is an internationally renowned fine jeweller who was the first woman to enter the male bastion of Cairo’s ancient Khan el-Khalili jewellery quarter as an apprentice in the 1960s. According to Fahmy, designers such as herself, Amina Khalil and Marie Bishara have become more flexible and nimble with their business operations and more agile with digital marketing.
“Not only that, a surge of new business entrepreneurs were born out of the revolution [although] it is too early to see any tangible ‘green shoots’ of economic recovery quite yet. The country needed stability and, with this, economic growth will definitely come. Egypt is a young fashion market with tremendous potential,” Fahmy says.
Another thing the revolution highlighted was just how resilient certain sectors and tiers of the Egyptian market are to the kind of instability that would probably wreak havoc in other countries.
“We closed our Cairo and Alexandria stores at the beginning of the revolution but re-opened shortly after the revolution began based on demand from our clients,” Fahmy reveals. “Surprisingly, we achieved reasonable retail sales at first and, even more surprisingly, the following months proved to be one of our best sales performing periods. I believe that this was partly due to the huge surge in support for local brands, coupled with the emotional need to maintain normality amid the unrest. Nonetheless, for us, the revolution was business as usual albeit operating within curfew hours.”
In other words, because Egyptian business culture has had so much practice absorbing and enduring instability over the past half-century, many of its leaders have grown accustomed to finding ways around major obstacles and sometimes even turning them into assets. This is a quality that many international fashion investors will no doubt find reassuring.
The Lay of the Land
No matter how persuasive Egypt’s business community may be in their portrayal of the market as a glass half-full, there is no getting around the fact that the current regime faces some exceptionally daunting challenges before it can claim real, lasting stability.
In addition to the need for urgent political reconciliation, there is the still smouldering social divide between Salafists and secularists as well as mistrust between the rich and the poor and several high-profile international human rights controversies. All this before there is any mention of the precarious state of the economy. Nevertheless, an increasing number of analysts are upbeat, indicating that the basket-case economy of last year is now at least on the long, hard road to recovery through reform and austerity, while investors point out that Egyptian stocks have returned to pre-revolution levels.
In other areas, too, the numbers look attractive. According to New World Wealth, a wealth intelligence provider, Egypt has the second highest number of millionaires in Africa. Today’s 22,800 Egyptian millionaires represent a 2 percent increase from five years earlier – in spite of the revolution – and it is estimated that millionaires will increase by 52 percent in the next 15 years.
In terms of sheer size, the country can count between 20 and 30 million members of the ‘middle class,’ depending on which definition you apply. But no matter how you define it, Egypt’s middle class is growing, and growing fast. As for the side of Egypt’s apparel and footwear market, Euromonitor International anticipate growth of 40.1 percent between this year and 2018 when the sector is expected to be worth $3.8 billion.
Egypt’s ban on apparel imports was lifted just a few years before the 2011 revolution and the fashion market was growing at breakneck pace before the uprising in Tahrir Square. Large-scale retail developments in Egypt’s major cities of Cairo, Alexandria, Port Said and Sharm El Sheikh were being planned to replace or upgrade some of the more traditional souks. At the same time, international high-street brands opened up in new or revamped shopping malls like Citystars, Mall of Arabia and Cairo Festival City.
“Even during the import ban, luxury brands had been sold discreetly at multi-brand boutiques ‘behind closed doors’. But after import legalisation, we saw several new brands enter the market including standalone stores for Bvlgari, Zegna, Burberry and Ferragamo in The First Mall Cairo while others were sold at Beymen’s department store in Garden City. Louis Vuitton was gearing up to open in 2012 but then, boom, the revolution happened so that was cut short,” says Sabet.
“Still, Galleria 40 is the latest upmarket mall to open its doors, located in 6th of October City which is one of the suburbs of Cairo filled with luxury residential compounds. High-end indie retailers have also mushroomed in Cairo’s affluent districts of Zamalek, Heliopolis, Maadi and in Mohandeseen on the other side of the Nile,” she adds.
But according to Farid, herein lies one of the major hurdles the market needs to overcome before the next big wave of high-end brands expands in Cairo. “We’re waiting for the birth of a unified fashion district and this is something that relies upon urban development activity from the government. I know that all the CEOs of Kering, LVMH, Richemont – everyone – they all have their eyes on Egypt. They’re just waiting,” he reveals. “It’s so urgent in fact that I’ve written a white paper on it myself and handed it over to the new government.”
Sabet has, in her own way, tried to address this issue too by creating and consolidating the city’s first designer shopping festival called Cairo’s Fashion Nights, which she bravely launched right after the revolution and has organised annually since.
The Regional Dimension
Just as Egypt’s macroeconomic development is now dependent on loans and investment from its wealthy neighbours in the Gulf, so too is Egypt’s fashion market dependent on similar investment. Apart from a few native firms like Ahmed Farid’s Baraka Group and Ossama El-Naggar’sNile Projects most of the Egyptian franchise rights for global brands were bought up by major players from the Gulf before Egypt’s own market even opened up.
Retail operators like Alshaya from Kuwait, Alhokair from Saudi Arabia and MAC, a local subsidiary of the UAE’s Chalhoub Group, still dominate the Egyptian high-street and contemporary sector alongside Lebanese firms like Azadea Group. The Qataris and the Saudis have long been tussling with locals over the acquisition of Egypt’s once splendid 150-year-old heritage department store, Omar Effendi, which had grand outposts across the cities of the Middle East before it began to tarnish as a downmarket chain. Meanwhile, Gulf shopping mall developers like Dubai’s Majid Al Futtaim are penetrating deeper into bricks and mortar with multi-billion dollar projects like the Mall of Egypt which is slated to open next year.
But putting strategic, geographic and profit incentives aside, there is one other compelling reason for fashion firms from the Gulf to push forward in Egypt now. To many Khaleeji Arabs, Cairo’s style legacy is something that simply can’t be quantified because it is partly about emotion. True, Kuwait may indeed be unrivalled for its fashion-forward street style; Beirut for its effortless vavavoom; and Dubai for being the glitziest shopping mecca of the Middle East. But for many fashion leaders, Cairo remains the spiritual and historical home of modern Arab style.
“Growing up in Bahrain in the 1980s, I could still feel the reverberations of Cairo’s golden age even then, especially when I spent time with my grandparents. The music of Umm Kulthumand Abdel Halim Hafez was always in the background and we couldn’t escape the expression ‘Egypt: Mother of the World’,” says Hind Matar, the London-based designer of the up-and-coming fashion brand MATAR. “I recall with great fondness watching so many spectacular old films from that era with my father like Cairo Station and The Nightingale Prayer. And I specifically remember how modern and elegant the Egyptian actresses were.”
During much of the 20th century, Egypt was a regional leader in art, culture and education around the Arab world. Kings, presidents, sultans, ministers, prominent businessmen and royals from most Arab countries were educated and entertained in Egypt, leaving an indelible impression on generations to come.
Dana Al-Khalifa is a blue-blooded Bahraini entrepreneur who has used the popularity of her fashion blog TheOverdressed.com to partner with jewellery trade shows and global e-commerce sites interested in expanding in the Middle East. According to Al-Khalifa, it is not simply about nostalgia for Egyptian style icons of yesteryear like Faten Hamama, Soad Hosny and Hind Rostom, but also the timeless elegance that Egyptian style still conjures from that era today.
“There’s a black and white picture of my grandmother in a striped sleeveless taffeta dress cut in the classic 50s silhouette and, although she never told me, I get the feeling she got it in Egypt – because at that time Egypt is where all those beautiful clothes came from,” she says. “There are underlying elements of those [classic Egyptian] characteristics in the way many women dress today. In fact, it’s what I draw inspiration from too.”
Operating income increased by 14.9 percent while sales advanced 6.6 percent.
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Retailer Next was one of London’s best performers after reporting a rise in Q2 sales.
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Operating income increased by 14.9 percent while sales advanced 6.6 percent.
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Retailer Next was one of London’s best performers after reporting a rise in Q2 sales.
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Valérie Trierweiler and Anne Hidalgo inaugurated the exhibit in Paris.
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The deal marks the end of a two-year battle with BNP Paribas Personal Finance, its partner in the venture.
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A Paris commercial court has approved the plan, which gives the French fashion firm more time to pay down its debt.
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The German activewear brand reported a 5.8 percent drop in sales in the second quarter.
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The ever-versatile shirtdress gets even more multifaceted for resort.
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There are a number of fast-growing competitors populating the country’s vast e-commerce landscape.
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Strong growth in all product categories and geographical sectors helped propel a double-digit rise in revenues at the company.
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A more democratic era has emerged in global sourcing thanks a series of events and shifting buying patterns.
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According to the report, 61 percent of female online-marketplace shoppers have been misled into purchasing counterfeit designer goods.
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Sabine Le Chatelier, PV's deputy fashion director, highlighted key fabrics trends for fall 2015 in a seminar at the New York show.
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WWD's photographer sees it all and shares his unique perspective from a packed weekend in the Hamptons.
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