J.W. Anderson’s Comfort Zone

It was never Jonathan Anderson’s aim to be so closely bound to androgyny—he never set out to be the designer who would unleash the unisex creature that’s now stalking men’s catwalks worldwide. In fact, the designer of the London-based J.W. Anderson collection and the creative director of Loewe doesn’t like the A-word at all. He believes what he’s doing with his shrunken, body-baring knitwear, jewel-like sculptural embellishments and off-the-shoulder pinstripes is much more nuanced—and provocative. “I never set out to work on the concept of androgyny. For me, it was more about trying to find a wardrobe that would fundamentally appeal to both men and women: Trying to find the right shirt, the right jeans, the right trouser—but on different landscapes. Trying to find a uniform, something we’ve been doing from Day One,” he says from the Loewe studio in Paris. “I find androgyny quite a dated concept. I feel it’s kind of like a pun, and that it represents a period of time in fashion.” Who can blame him? Androgyny, as an aesthetic, comes and goes with every generation in fashion, hair or makeup—and the word itself has become a cliché. “My vision is trying to find this balance within the taboo of

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