Jill Tucker Talks About Cambodia’s Sourcing Challenge

Between October 2011 and December 2014, Jill Tucker worked as chief technical adviser to the International Labour Organization’s Better Factories Cambodia program. In that time, the country’s garment industry expanded substantially, and worker protests for higher wages led to violent crackdowns early last year, with at least four deaths. This year, Tucker started a new job in Hong Kong. As the second anniversary of the collapse of Rana Plaza in Dhaka, Bangladesh, approaches on Friday, Tucker reflects here on the industry in Cambodia and beyond. WWD: Now that you’ve had some time away from Cambodia, how do you view efforts to improve garment factory conditions? Jill Tucker: I think the hardest piece in this whole world is the consumer piece — nobody’s really gotten that right. WWD: What do you mean by that? J.T.: There are all sorts of levers we can pull to try to improve working conditions. But the lever that has been pulled most is the brand lever — shaming the brand and getting the brand to take responsibility for the factories. Few efforts focus on government enforcement. Few focus on consumers — to really get those consumers to change their behavior. The media exposes these issues to consumers, and that’s

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