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2015年4月23日 星期四

Bottega Veneta Does Residential Project

MILAN — Bottega Veneta has partnered with a real estate developer for the first time, designing the grand lobby and all common areas inside a Berlin luxury residence by Ralf Schmitz, a German firm known for its upscale property developments. Since its inception in 1864, the company has remained family-run and worked on upwards of 2,500 properties. With architecture by Sebastian Treese Architects, the new residence, called Eisenzahn 1, is located in the Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf West Berlin neighborhood and slated to open in fall 2016. Spread across six floors, the building is comprised of 11 living spaces and one full-floor penthouse with a private rooftop terrace; at 5,035 square feet and 8.5 million euros, or $9.16 million at current exchange, that’s the most expensive of the bunch. Prices for the other residences start at 2.2 million euros, or $2.35 million, and the smallest is 2,067 square feet. An entire floor level was scrapped to allow for ceilings nearly 11 feet high, and any of the residences can be fully outfitted in Bottega Veneta home decor, upon request. Daniel Schmitz, managing director of Ralf Schmitz and the great-great-grandson of its founder, said he was familiar with work Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier had

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Fashion and Beauty Book Spring Releases

From witty novels to helpful how-tos, a slew of new fashion and beauty books are hitting shelves this spring.

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Service Safari: New Beauty Services in New York

Beauty editorial assistant Anna Dysinger scopes out the surge of new beauty services in New York. PH7 NAIL COUTURE Opened: July 28 When Cici Huang got pregnant and stopped using nail polishes with chemicals, she couldn’t find a nontoxic salon in Williamsburg. Thus was born pH7 Nail Couture (the name refers to the pH balance of pure water), which Huang opened with her sister-in-law, Helen Ke. The all-natural nail salon uses only three- and five-free polishes from lines like RGB, Butter London and Shewasi Lacquer; organic soy wax and Calgel, a gas-permeable gel system that enables moisture to get to the nail bed. 227 Grand Street, Brooklyn; 718.218.8586 BEAUTYRX PEEL BAR Opened: October 17 Nestled in a bright corner of the Butterfly Studio Salon is Dr. Neil Schultz’s BeautyRX Peel Bar, where consumers can receive his signature 40 percent glycolic peel at a fraction of the price — just $50, compared to $225 in-office. The service is super fast and simple — a nurse removes any makeup, then applies the glycolic peel with a cotton ball, leaves it on for two minutes and rinses it with water. The formula is gentle enough for sensitive skin and doesn’t require time to recoup. Says Dr. Schultz, “This is a

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Taylor Schilling Promotes ‘The Overnight’ at TriBeCa

“Girl…I’ve been taped in securely. It’s a whole situation,” Taylor Schilling is talking about her boobs, which anyone who’s a fan of “Orange Is the New Black” has already seen many times over. The actress is at the Smyth downtown in a hotel room that has been cleared of its contents and staged with directors’ chairs and a TriBeCa Film Festival-branded step and repeat. Schilling is there along with her costar Judith Godrèche to promote “The Overnight,” showing at the festival. The film first made its rounds in January at Sundance, where it sparked a minor bidding war among six buyers including Netflix and Lionsgate (The Orchard ended up paying $4 million for it.) In the film, Adam Scott and Schilling play Alex and Emily, a couple hoping to recruit new friends having just relocated to east Los Angeles from Seattle. They meet Kurt — a suave and self-assured hipster played expertly by Jason Schwartzman — when their sons share a bag of gummy worms at a local playground. After a few minutes of chit-chat, Kurt invites the couple over for pizza later that night, a nighttime playdate for the boys and a get-to-know-you meal for the grown-ups (consummately L.A., the pizza

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Estée Lauder Unveils New Dimension Line Fronted By Eva Mendes

Estée Lauder wants to transform the beauty landscape with its latest offering, the aptly titled New Dimension collection. Fronted by actress Eva Mendes, the two skin-care products, New Dimension Shape + Fill Expert Serum and New Dimension Expert Liquid Tape, will be launched in North America in May and worldwide in September. Lauder will also debut two contouring compacts, the Shape + Sculpt Face Kit and the Shape + Sculpt Eye Kit. “Women have many dimensions. The new vision of beauty goes beyond skin to the whole face,” said Estée Lauder global brand president Jane Hertzmark Hudis. “The notion of structure and volume being the new beauty and wanting to look good from every angle are big ideas in our industry. It’s not about problem-solution, it’s about positive transformation.” Said Mendes, “When you’re on a red carpet, you’re photographed from every angle and you can’t control that. But if you have products you love, once you go out there, you don’t worry as much. It’s a confidence booster.” Referring to the collection’s development and testing, which took two-and-a-half years, Hudis said, “Everything about it has been crafted differently.” The skin care is designed to work on multiple levels to plump and smooth skin from

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Backstage Confidential: Odile Gilbert, La Visionnaire

Genius hairstylist Odile Gilbert has been a staple backstage at fashion shows since her first with John Galliano in 1994. Anna Dysinger shadowed the Parisian-born star at New York Fashion Week to get her take on the season’s key beauty trends. Karlie Kloss glides into the backstage hair area 30 minutes before the Jason Wu show is scheduled to start. Odile Gilbert, the epitome of comfort in black stirrup leggings from The Row and black UGG Australia slippers, whisks the supermodel into a chair and begins methodically wrapping small sections of her hair around a curling iron, chatting away with the leggy beauty like an old friend. Gilbert’s hands move meticulously at a rapid-fire pace, but she notes that the loose, wavy hairstyle is much more arduous than an intricate updo. “It’s often more difficult because it’s simple,” she says. “Natural hair has more movement and is alive.” A throng of photographers, editors, bloggers and other camera-wielding media folk close in, eager for a money shot of the duo. A petite male photographer with three cameras slung around his neck aims and shoots, holding down the shutter-release button so his camera sounds like a machine gun. Gilbert gives him a threatening sideways

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Miu Miu Opens in Miami Design District

MIAMI HEAT: Miu Miu, which has operated a boutique at Bal Harbour Shops since 2009, is adding to the sizzle in the Miami Design District with a shop that opened Thursday. Architect Roberto Baciocchi designed the bi-level, 5,435-square-foot store at 190 NE 39th Street. A perforated metal curtain backs its glass facade adorned with light boxes and geometric bands in black marble. The store is a mélange of textures: Gold damask and floor-to-ceiling mirrors cover walls on the ground floor, which is divided into three rooms dedicated to handbags, accessories and shoes. Damask also lines display cases framed in polished steel. A black marble staircase leads to a similar setting for women’s ready-to-wear, while beige carpeting, a painted canvas ceiling and velvet mohair seating soften the decor for an elegant effect.

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Sally Hershberger, Doug Lloyd Talk Sephora Launch

Spend an hour with Sally Hershberger and it quickly becomes clear that the star stylist is kind of like the Forrest Gump of hair—a key playmaker at pivotal moments in beauty history. Break the price barrier with an $800 haircut? Check. Give Jane Fonda a gasp-inducing shag cut for her first post-divorce Academy Awards appearance? Check. Conceive category-killer ideas for John Frieda hair care. Make Hillary Clinton look cool on the cover of Vogue? Colonize the Meatpacking district before it became a bridge-and-tunnel playground. Check, check and check. But now, Hershberger is channeling her time, (personal) money and energy into 24K, her line of styling products that is available online and on HSN and set to launch in Sephora in July. Meanwhile, Hershberger’s namesake mass-market line is being scaled back, which she acknowledges only makes sense for a woman who now charges new clients $1,000 for a haircut. “This is me,” she says. “This is what I want to do. I am luxury.” Here, WWD Beauty Inc spends a few minutes with Hershberger and Doug Lloyd, the branding guru and cofounder of Lloyd & Co., who is working with Hershberger on the creative realization of the brand. Beauty Inc.: How did

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Tabitha Soren’s ‘Fantasy Life’ Photo Exhibition Opening in L.A.

Tabitha Soren might know a thing or two about living a fantasy life. She once held the gaze of millions of viewers at MTV News, appeared in a Gap ad and married a best-selling author, yet it was only when she stepped from in front of the camera to behind one that she began to grasp the potential for not only her own life, but most of America’s. In her photography exhibition titled “Fantasy Life” that opens Saturday at Los Angeles’ Kopeikin Gallery, Soren uses baseball as a metaphor for the uniquely American concept of Manifest Destiny, which, in her words, “propels us all to feel like we need to do something extraordinary.” She started by taking pictures of the Oakland Athletics’ draft class in 2003 and tracking their successes and failures through the years. (Three still play on Major League Baseball teams, another is homeless and the rest have found new livelihoods in coaching, stonemasonry, coal mining, wineries and insurance.) She even forced them to swap their Nike and Under Armour-branded clothes for plain white tank tops so her photos wouldn’t look cluttered. When boredom in the dugout moved her to experiment with taking an abstract image of bugs and

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Spring’s Most Innovative Sunscreen Products

Sunscreen is a red-hot category. For the 12 months ending February 2015, sun-care products grew 4 percent, outpacing the prestige skin-care market, according to NPD. Here, some of spring’s most innovative launches. Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream For Face, $36 Shiseido developed a proprietary WetForce technology for its new sun-care line, which strengthens the sunscreen when it gets wet by forming a water-repellant layer. Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula Eventone Suncare Moisturizing Sunscreen Balm, $6 Palmer’s first line of sunscreen includes this solid-to-oil balm that melts on contact with skin. The ultramoisturizing formula blends cocoa butter, shea butter and coconut oil. L’Oréal Paris Advanced Suncare Invisible Protect Clear Cool Lotion, $10.99 The clear formula is infused with antioxidants like vitamin E and white grape seed and provides an instant cooling effect, said to reduce the skin’s temperature by four degrees. Supergoop! Defense Refresh Setting Mist with Rosemary, $28 Developed as a three-in-one, this mist sets makeup, controls oil with silica and protects against UV rays. Eau Thermale Avène Ultra-Light Hydrating Sunscreen Lotion Spray, $30 European skin-care brand Avène has launched its first sunscreen line specifically for the U.S. In addition to UVA and UVB protection, thermal spring water soothes skin. Neutrogena Cooldry Sport with Micromesh Sunscreen Spray, $11.99 The nongreasy spray uses sweat-resistant technology that

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Letter From the Editor: Turning the Page

Today we say goodbye to an old friend, a morning habit for generations. This is the final newsprint edition of WWD. We pause to acknowledge this scrappy newspaper and its 105 years of chronicling an equally scrappy industry. Decades ago, anxious reporters smoked at their desks, manual typewriters clacked, Linotypes pumped, Teletypes hummed and pneumatic tubes (the latest miracle technology at the time) carried wire reports from floor to floor through the old Fairchild building on East 12th Street. When deadline descended, colossal presses in the basement cranked up and thundered through the floors. Old-timers still talk about how the presses shook the entire building, quite a romantic coda to a day’s work of reporting inside the daily news cycle. At one time, newsboys even delivered an afternoon edition of the paper. Today, there’s nothing cyclical about news. It’s Instant Media. A global Niagara of information in a river of technology. Linotypes and Teletypes have given way to silent servers and an alphabet soup of functions and utilities, SEO, URLs, PDFs, CMS, APPs. We all know how technological leaps have rattled traditional business models across all industries. Facebook has a bigger market capitalization than Coca-Cola. But for anyone in the news business, the two

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Fortnum & Mason Revamps Beauty Floor

LONDON — Storied London department store Fortnum & Mason unveiled its new beauty hall this week, a tranquil, 7,000-square-foot space designed by London firm Waldo Works as a modern take on a Georgian ladies’ salon. The 307-year-old store’s management has been developing the space for the past two years, with two million pounds, or $3.4 million, devoted to its revamp. The investment in the store follows the appointment of chief executive officer Ewan Venters in 2012. Under Venters — who was previously director of food and restaurants at Selfridges — Fortnum & Mason’s pre-tax profits more than doubled in the year to July 2014 to 3.8 million pounds, or $6.2 million, with sales up 14 percent to 74.4 million pounds, or $122 million. Dollar figures have been converted at average exchange rates for the period. Venters has also opened offshoots of the Piccadilly department store — which is known for its luxury food hall – in London’s St. Pancras station, Heathrow’s Terminal Five and in Dubai. Jo Newton, head of buying for fashion, beauty and home for Fortnum & Mason, said the beauty floor’s relaunch grew out of the success of the store’s fragrance business, with the niche, high-end brands that the store

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Fall 2015 Makeup Trend: Graphic Eye

Peter Philips calls it the “eye catcher”; Tom Pecheux says it’s rock ’n’ roll. No matter how you spin it, the graphic eye dominated the catwalks during the Fall 2015 fashion season. “Graphic has a certain power,” says Pecheux, who created the looks at Chanel and Anthony Vaccarello. “When you see smoky, you think of something more light, gentle and romantic. Graphic is more powerful.” Philips says it’s also animalistic. At Dior, designer Raf Simons referenced “la femme animale,” which inspired Philips to draw a graphic interpretation of an animal print on the eyes. “I made sure the look was new and strong,” he says. “We’ve had a few seasons of very nude faces, so it’s saying, ‘Let’s play again with makeup and make it a bit more exciting.’”

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Beauty Inc. Top 100 2014

Call it a year of mostly ups and some downs: In 2014, 77 percent of the world’s leading beauty companies—including number one, L’Oréal—posted sales gains. But one look at the WWD Beauty Inc Top 100, our annual ranking of the world’s biggest beauty companies, shows that some key players faced significant challenges. Not least of these was caused by currency fluctuations, which had a significant impact on many firms. For example, with the exception of the big three (Shiseido, Kao and Kosé), Japanese companies all dropped a few places in the ranking, while certain European companies, particularly those with large businesses in countries plagued by political and economic instability, like Russia and Italy, lagged, too. Conversely, no surprise that South Korean firms all climbed up the rankings, in large part thanks to brisk international business, particularly in China. In terms of categories, companies with exposure to the professional hair-care channel generally continued to see their sales affected by the weakness in that segment. One notable trend in 2014 was the acceleration in acquisition activity by the leading players—L’Oréal and the Estée Lauder Cos., but also Coty, with its surprise agreement to buy Bourjois from Chanel. With the exception of L’Oréal’s purchase of

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Hearst Magazines Expands GlossyBox Partnership

COSMOBODY’S BOX: In the push to secure ever-more-vital print subscriptions and advertising dollars, magazines are rushing to form partnerships with brands in any way they can. In typical Hearst Magazines fashion, the company has expanded its relationship with GlossyBox, an international beauty subscription service, across many of its titles. Last year, the service partnered with Harper’s Bazaar and O, The Oprah Magazine. GlossyBox’s latest partnership is with CosmoBody, a digital subscription fitness channel produced by Hearst’s Entertainment & Syndication division. CosmoBody, which launched in July, is part of the Cosmopolitan brand umbrella, which allows the fitness channel to market its service across those brand platforms. That’s the crux of CosmoBody’s deal with GlossyBox. The deal, which runs in May, gives GlossyBox subscribers a box of products chosen by CosmoBody trainers, in addition to a monthlong trial with CosmoBody and a 40 percent discount to join CosmoBody. It costs $9.95 a month to join CosmoBody, which, according to sources, is struggling to grow its membership. Hearst declined to provide figures on the channel’s current membership. GlossyBox will also gain access to the database of subscribers across all Hearst titles, which includes Marie Claire, Elle and Bazaar. This allows GlossyBox to send out e-mail blasts

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Britt Robertson: Girl of the Moment

Britt Robertson is only 25 years old, but her stellar résumé suggests otherwise. In 2010, she landed her first lead role in the TV series Life Unexpected. A year later, she starred in another series, The Secret Circle. Then came supporting roles in Under the Dome and Cake; the lead in the new Nicholas Sparks adaptation, The Longest Ride; and, come May 22, she’s starring alongside arguably the most famous male actor in Hollywood—yes, George Clooney—in Disney’s new film, Tomorrowland. Although she’s a seasoned actress with looks to boot, April Webster and Alyssa Weisberg, casting directors for Tomorrowland, say it’s the North Carolina native’s down-to-earth attitude that gives her star power. “She has a little bit of that tomboy quality we were looking for in this role and a strong sense of self and wonder,” says Weisberg. “And she has a great sense of humor,” adds Webster. “She brings a sense of joy when she’s on set.”

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Beauty Bulletin: Some Like It Pink

Red is so 2013. Of the top-100 new lipstick shades last year, pink brought in 23 percent more dollars according to NPD. “Pink is a health-giving color that people really gravitate to. The bright, popping pinks are more energetic and you get that underlying sensuousness,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “We are even seeing more of it in the European countries and in Asia it is a very popular color as well.” If these new launches for spring and summer are any indication, the pink juggernaut shows no signs of slowing.

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Shopper Stalker: San Francisco

Shopper: Meghan Harris and daughter Lili Date/Time: 3.6.2015, 11:45 a.m. Store: Sephora Location: 2083 Union Street, San Francisco School let out early on Friday, so Meghan Harris seized the opportunity to take her teenage daughter Lili to Sephora to introduce her to makeup and skin care. “She just turned 13, and I’m feeling that she is welcome to experiment. Lili is starting to get some breakouts, so we also wanted help finding out what to use on her sensitive skin,” says Harris. A sales associate guided the duo to First Aid Beauty, a brand Lili wasn’t familiar with, but was encouraged to try for her acne. Makeup was next; Lili scored concealer and a multiuse palette from Urban Decay and Sephora’s house label, respectively. Lili thinks a small handful of cosmetics will be sufficient for her needs. “I just want to wear some for special occasions and parties and, when your friends come over, it’s fun to do each others’ makeup,” she says. While at Sephora, Harris, who spends about $300 annually on beauty, snagged some items for herself, too. “I’m really boring with makeup,” she says. “I am trying some new stuff, though, but it is all from Nars.” Total Spent: $212.00 Shopper: Kristen Ostro Date/Time:

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Top Menswear Instagrams of the Week

See our picks for the best posts from the world of menswear.

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Catherine Malandrino Lawsuit Seeks $26.9M in Damages

NEW YORK — Catherine Malandrino wants her day in court. The designer has sued multiple defendants — including Elie Tahari and Bluestar Alliance LLC — in connection with the sale of her company in 2011 and 2013. The lawsuit containing seven causes of action — such as breach of contract and tortious interference — was filed on Wednesday in a New York State Court in Manhattan. It seeks at least $26.9 million in damages that include $1.3 million for breach of an employment agreement, and failure to pay an incentive bonus of $4.9 million as well as a $2.6 million bonus from income from a diffusion line. Some of the other causes of action each seek $12.7 million in damages based on a similar set of facts connected with the sale of her company. If Malandrino were to win all the damages sought for each cause of action, the total would hit $65 million. Named in the lawsuit were defendants ASL Holdings LLC, ASL Operations LLC, Tahari ASL LLC, Elie Tahari, Arthur S. Levine and Lester E. Schreiber, all collectively the Tahari defendants. Also named as defendants were Bluestar and its founders Joseph Gabbay and Ralph Gindi, collectively the Bluestar defendants. Another defendant

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