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2015年3月29日 星期日

Paramore’s Hayley Williams Launches Beauty and Music Video Series

When it comes to makeup, Paramore’s Hayley Williams doesn’t care about boundaries. Evident in her debut episode of Kiss-Off, a series of three- to five-minute Webisodes that incorporates music and beauty, Williams’ friend and makeup artist Brian J. O’Connor will replicate a punk rock, David Bowie-like look on her from the 1982 cult film “Ladies and Gentlemen, The Fabulous Stains.” “[The show] isn’t about what color looks good on your skin tone or how to make your lips look bigger or contour this or that,” she declared, adding the show will air Tuesday on Popular TV, a video-led media platform for Millennial girls created by Nylon cofounders Marvin Scott Jarrett and Jaclynn Jarrett. “It’s about what do you like and how can you express that and find out what your look is by trying new things.” The 26-year-old lead singer of Paramore won’t just center the show around makeup, but also music and different cultural elements. “It won’t be specific to Paramore,” Williams said. “That was something I was very adamant about from the get-go. I want to have other artists on the show, interview them about what inspires them and maybe how they found their look and what the process was for that.” But

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IWC Schaffhausen to Sponsor Tribeca Film Festival Again

MOVIE TIME: IWC Schaffhausen and the Tribeca Film Festival are going for the complete hat trick. For the third year, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has signed on as the official “festival-time” partner of the New York-based film festival, which runs from April 15 to 26. To mark the partnership, IWC has created a one-of-a-kind timepiece, called the Portofino Monopusher Edition “Tribeca Film Festival 2015.” The watch features a white gold case set against a slate-colored dial, with bordeaux colored subdials inspired by Hollywood’s red carpet. The casebook of the piece features the logo of the Tribeca Film Festival, as well. The one-off piece will be auctioned off through Christie’s, in an online-only auction taking place from April 1 to 10, with all proceeds going to the Tribeca Film Institute, the festival’s nonprofit affiliate. “The Tribeca Film Institute has proved year in and year out to be one of the world’s premier charitable organizations when it comes to nurturing and elevating young filmmakers,” said Georges Kern, chief executive officer of IWC. The winner of the auction will also receive VIP access to the festival itself, as well as an invitation to the annual “For The Love of Cinema” dinner, hosted

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Rent the Runway to Open in Chicago

RENT THE RUNWAY BOWS IN CHICAGO: Dressing rooms outfitted with selfie mirrors and iPad minis are just some of the shopping perks that will adorn the new Rent the Runway retail store in Chicago. Opening April 30, the 2,940-square-foot store will be located at 710 North Wabash Avenue in the Gold Coast neighborhood. Jennifer Hyman, ceo and cofounder of RTR, said, “Our goal is to help women to look and feel their best for any occasion, from an important job interview to an exclusive gala.” The boutique will feature more than 300 designers, including Marchesa Notte, Diane von Furstenberg, Cushnie et Ochs, Vera Wang and more. The store will rent everything from dresses, separates and outerwear to jewelry, handbags and sunglasses. For $25, customers can book an individual appointment with a stylist for one-on-one wardrobe expertise. Fitting rooms will have selfie mirrors, to snap photos of your look, and iPad minis where stylists will upload each outfit the guests try on and can add comments for future reference on the RTR online store. In addition to Chicago, Rent the Runway has retail stores in New York City, Las Vegas and Washington.

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Dufry Gains Control of World Duty Free

Control of Italy’s World Duty Free SpA has passed to Switzerland’s Dufry AG. Edizione srl, the parent holding company of the Benetton family, on Saturday sold its 50.1 percent stake in the airport mega-retailer to its Swiss competitor for a sum of 1.3 billion euros, or $1.4 billion at current exchange. Dufry paid 10.25 euros, or $11.16, per share for its majority stake. Following the acquisition, Dufry, which is listed on the Zurich Stock Exchange and is already the biggest company in its sector with 1,900 stores in 217 international airports, is adding World Duty Free’s 495 points of sale to its retail business. World Duty Free, which is listed on the Milan Stock Exchange, split from Autogrill, a company controlled by Edizione, in June 2013, and had sought new investment partners since late in 2014. According to a statement released by Edizione, “the integration with Dufry is strategically aimed at creating an international leader in the airport travel retail business.” Dufry, it said, will have to increase its capital “to partially finance the acquisition.”

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Accessories Council to Honor Fashion Institute of Technology Programs

FIT GETS INDUCTED: The Accessories Council is going back to school for its 2015 Hall of Fame Awards. This year, the annual event will honor the Fashion Institute of Technology’s accessories and jewelry design programs. The awards ceremony will take place April 20 in New York City, with council president Karen Giberson, Swarovski’s creative director Nathalie Colin, and FIT president Joyce Brown speaking. The council began hosting the event in 2007 to recognize the accomplishments and careers of industry leaders, as well as provide a networking event for industry members. Previous winners include Ruth Finley, Mary Belle, president of licensing for the Jones Group, and Dorothy Roberts, chairman of the Echo Design Group.

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Rachel Zoe Ventures Invests in Software Start-up Bringhub

RACHEL ZOE, INVESTOR: Rachel Zoe Ventures is among a group of investors that participated in a $1.6 million seed round for a Los Angeles-based software start-up, Bringhub. The deal, which closed in mid-February, also included BAM Ventures and Canyon Creek Capital, and takes Bringhub’s total raised to date to $1.8 million. Bringhub’s software lets digital-media companies add shopping-cart capabilities to its sites in what chief executive officer and cofounder Dominik Pantelides calls e-commerce 3.0. “The connected generation shops by inspiration,” he said. “They go to content sites. They go to social media. They go to blogs to get inspiration on their purchase. At this moment, there’s no way to connect from the moment of inspiration. It’s all fragmented and difficult to have a seamless buying experience.” Bringhub’s software means a consumer browsing a digital-content site could potentially buy a dress, shoes, flight and hotel room in a single transaction with Bringhub’s shopping cart. The Zoe Report recently signed on as a customer and is in the process of integrating the technology into its site so that someone browsing its content could, for example, shop the “Our Fave Products” section without being redirected to Nordstrom, Net-a-porter or another channel to complete the actual checkout

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Kanye West and Damon Dash Show Interest in Karmaloop

NOT SO FAST: Kanye West and Damon Dash are just two of several individuals who have checked in with Karmaloop founder Greg Selkoe regarding their interest in buying the now bankrupt streetwear e-tailer. Late last week the duo took to a series of 15-second Instagram videos discussing their intent to buy Karmaloop. Given the bankruptcy, even if they do get selected as the stalking horse bidder, there’s no guarantee that they’ll get the company. Bankrupt firms that are planning to be sold need to go through a court auction where the stalking horse can be outbid by a better offer. An auction is likely to occur sometime next month. Karmaloop filed a voluntary Chapter 11 petition for bankruptcy in a Delaware court last Monday. It stated in its petition that it had between $10 million and $50 million in assets and between $100 million and $500 million in liabilities. Selkoe told WWD the problem was due to debt from failed ventures, while the core business remains solid.

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What Went Wrong at Reed Krakoff?

Reed Krakoff has accomplished a lot in the past decade. He transformed Coach into a multibillion dollar company, won a CFDA Award for his namesake label and dressed the First Lady on multiple high-profile occasions. So the news earlier this month that Krakoff’s investors had grown skittish and that he would temporarily suspend operations begs the question: What went wrong? After all, if a designer of Krakoff’s stature, fame — and wealth — couldn’t make it, what hope is there for the little guy? There were signs that it was not business as usual for the brand following the release of February’s New York Fashion Week show schedule, where Krakoff’s name was nowhere to be found. Instead of staging a fashion show or presentation, Krakoff held a cocktail party feting the opening of his new Greene Street boutique. It was there, when prodded, that the designer owed his exemption from the formal schedule to a recent reassessment of how he conducts business. Rather than subscribing to the industry status quo, Krakoff told WWD that his brand would begin introducing designs on its own delivery schedule. There were explicitly no plans to ever stage a runway show again — a decision on which

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Diane von Furstenberg to Exit Melrose Avenue Space

MELROSE MOVES: Changes are afoot on Melrose Place. Diane von Furstenberg confirmed it will exit the Melrose Avenue space it has occupied for almost a decade, leaving an opportunity for Marc Jacobs, which pioneered the area’s retail development, to expand its Los Angeles flagship that occupies the triangular space on the corner of both streets. DVF has since opened stores in Los Angeles’ The Grove, Santa Monica Place and the Americana at Brand in Glendale, but Melrose Place is Jacobs’ only L.A. outpost. The company declined to comment on any expansion plans. The tree-lined street most recently became home to The Row, Isabel Marant and Irene Neuwirth, and Australian brand Zimmermann is moving in this year. “Melrose Place took a hit in 2008 but now it’s coming back with a cool mix of retail, and for a brand where adjacencies are important, it’s as good a location as any,” said Jay Luchs, executive vice president of Newmark Grubb Knight Frank, who brokered the Zimmermann deal and represents DVF. Rents on the street are currently $12 to $15 a square foot per month, or $144 to $180 a year, versus Rodeo Drive, which ranges $67 to $83 a square foot per

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Fall Accessories Trend: Brand New Bag

Lacquered crocodile, bold straps, rich finishes and sophisticated colorblocking refreshed key handbag silhouettes for fall.

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Marcus Samuelsson Goes Casual With Streetbird

When Marcus Samuelsson opened Red Rooster in 2010, he convinced the fashion world to travel uptown — way uptown — to Harlem, hosting parties for Balmain and Edun, as well as attracting even the most obstinate of downtown regulars for date nights. Now, with his second New York City restaurant, Streetbird, opening Friday, he’s primed to woo the masses — and the neighbors. “It’s the little cousin, the little brother, the little sister,” says Samuelsson of his rotisserie-chicken concept on the corner of 116th Street and Frederick Douglass Boulevard. “[Red] Rooster is a commitment. You have to make a reservation. Here, you don’t. You get off the subway, jump in, get your bird and go. We’re completely embedded in the neighborhood,” he continues. “Post-Rooster, I thought, What are we not doing? What’s not in Harlem now? How would it look? I wanted it to look more raw than Rooster, but yet have style.” Style has become synonymous with both Samuelsson (he’s been on Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed List two years running) and his restaurants. Walking through the Streetbird space, his eye for design detail distracts him more than once. “What we need to do now is these smaller moments within the

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Carolina Herrera Names Francois Kress CEO

NEW YORK — Carolina Herrera Ltd. has named Francois Kress chief executive officer. Kress, who was most recently global president of Stuart Weitzman LLC, joins the Herrera team following consecutive years of profitability at the fashion brand, stemming from such initiatives as enhanced digital branding, expanded product offerings, increased international distribution, bolstered retail partnerships and infrastructure investment. Upcoming is a creative collaboration with Mario Testino, a longtime friend of Herrera’s. Nearing her 34th anniversary, the designer has recruited Testino for a branding project that aims to define a cohesive visual expression for both Carolina Herrera New York and CH Carolina Herrera across all product categories, from fashion to accessories and fragrance. There will be a global launch in September. Other areas of strategic investment, including retail and digital projects, are also in development. Kress assumes some of the responsibilities previously handled by Caroline Brown, who resigned as president in September to become ceo of Donna Karan International, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Kress, who officially starts today, is based in the New York office and reports to Jose Manuel Albesa, chief brand officer for Barcelona-based parent company Puig. With more than 20 years of experience, Kress was previously president and chief operating officer

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Currency Shake-up Rattles Fashion World

LONDON — The plummeting euro and the pumped-up dollar have made for one strong cocktail of pleasure — and pain — for businesses and consumers on both sides of the Atlantic. The new currency normal has left European companies rejoicing about cheaper exports, fatter bottom lines and the potential to expand in the U.S. market, even as their anxieties grow about global pricing, the gray market and sourcing. American firms, used to operating with a weak currency, are now feeling the sting of falling sales and expensive exports while U.S. tourists, who suffered for years with a feeble currency, are preparing to press their plastic into action on the Continent and in the U.K., where the pound has lost substantial ground against the dollar. Back in January, Morgan Stanley predicted the euro would reach parity with the dollar by 2016, but earlier this month Goldman Sachs went even further and said parity could now happen as early as September. The last time the euro and the dollar were matched in value was more than a decade ago, in late 2002. Goldman’s latest three-month forecast for the euro is $1.02, and its 12-month projection is 95 cents. By the end of 2017, the bank expects the

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Fall 2015 Accessories: New York

From the runways to the showrooms, WWD combed through the season’s best accessories from all four fashion capitals — New York, London, Milan and Paris — and will roll out daily this week on WWD.com over 1,800 images of great items.

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The Specialty Store Winners by Gross Margin

From a profitability perspective, specialty apparel retailers had a challenging fourth quarter, and it looks like things might not improve anytime soon. In a perfect storm of heavy markdown activity, soft sales and the impact of a West Coast ports shutdown, an analysis by WWD of the gross margin rates of specialty retailers showed steep declines in the profit measure. Of the 18 companies tracked, 11 suffered deep erosion in gross margins while seven posted gains. Of the decliners, six of the 11 companies posted changes of more than 200 basis points. Of the gainers, three reported gains greater than 300 basis points. Analysts and investors can tolerate swings in gross margin rates that are 100 basis points either up or down. Changes greater than that are cause for scrutiny. The extreme declines and gains of the retailers analyzed in this report also reflect the nature of being a specialty retailer. This is a channel that is more sensitive to macroeconomic factors and other market changes as compared with larger department store and mass retailers who are often better at weathering market changes. Aéropostale Inc., Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. and Bebe Stores Inc. posted the greatest gains in gross margin rates as they

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