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2015年3月11日 星期三

Paul Marciano Taking Guess Foundation to Italy

ITALIAN CAUSE: The Guess Foundation, which launched in Los Angeles in 1994, is coming to Italy this year. The organization aims to capitalize on the brand power of Guess fashion to push for greater sensitivity to violence against women, which Paul Marciano — Guess chief executive and creative director and Guess Foundation president — called “a social plague that unfortunately remains widespread.” “We feel a specific duty to call the media’s attention to this problem in Italy, as well,” he added. According to 2014 statistics from the European Union Agency for Fundamental Rights, 27 percent of Italian women have experienced physical or sexual violence, of which 19 percent is at the hands of a partner. The Guess Foundation is planning to mark Denim Day in Italy this spring, and to organize a series of special fundraisers in local Guess stores, with the first events tentatively slated for May or June. Popularized in the U.S., the Denim Day movement originated in Italy as a protest against a 1998 Italian Supreme Court ruling (since overturned) that an 18-year-old girl could not have been raped because she was wearing tight jeans, which were deemed too difficult for an assailant to remove without her assistance. If

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Jan-Dirk van der Burg Shoots Calvin Klein Knockoffs for New Book

KALVI’S KLAN: Photographer Jan-Dirk van der Burg has turned his strange obsession of collecting knockoff Calvin Klein underwear into a sort of art. Van der Burg unveiled his book, which he calls more of a “pastiche and a brochure,” of photographs of male models wearing faux-Calvins on Vice.com Wednesday. Compiled by Vice photo editor Matthew Leifheit, the story gives readers a glimpse of the book, “Calvin Klein — The Dyslexic Collection,” which nods to CK Underwear’s black-and-white advertising campaigns. The images show male models donning what Leifheit calls the “typo-ridden undies,” which were procured throughout Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Common misspellings include: “Calven Kliem,” “Calvani Klain,” “Colvin Kloin,” “Calven Klei,” “Galvin Klain” and “Kalvi Klan” — van der Burg’s personal favorite. “It’s the furthest from [an infringement] of a copyright claim,” van der Burg said via phone from Amsterdam. “While the quality varies a lot, the Kalvi Klan briefs, I do wear often with joy. For me, it was kind of fashionable. There are just some small changes [in spelling].” The photographer said he has about 30 different pairs of knock-off Calvins, 11 of which have different misspellings. Van der Burg contacted Leifheit after he learned of his shared interest in knockoffs. “A

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Silver Jeans Teams With Jose Bautista

Silver Jeans is partnering with Toronto Blue Jays outfielder Jose Bautista on the Joey Series, a new limited-edition denim collection for fall. Although the family-owned Canada-based brand has worked with celebrities on licensing deals in the past, this is its first time collaborating with an athlete on a men’s capsule collection. Owner Michael Silver said the relationship with Bautista started organically after a business friend who represents athletes suggested they work together. “They invited me to a baseball game and he was absolutely not what I expected. He has a keen eye for fashion and wanted to get in on the fashion industry, but he didn’t want to put his name on just anything,” said Silver. Named after Bautista’s moniker, Joey Bats, the Joey Series includes two styles: the Eddie, a relaxed-fit jean with a tapered leg, and the Gordie, a loose-fit, straight-leg jean. The Dominican player worked with the design team on subtle details that range from baseball-like stitching on back pockets and lead stitching on watch pockets to screen prints of old baseball cards on pocket linings and cross bat embroidery on waistbands. The jeans will be numbered and will retail for about $5 above Silver’s regular collection, which starts at

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Stephen I. Sadove Talks Top Retail Disruptors

NEW YORK — “We’re going through a change, the biggest change, more change than any of us think will happen.” Those were words of wisdom from Stephen I. Sadove, cofounder and head of Traub Accelerator, Wednesday night at a presentation sponsored by CIT at the Sofitel Hotel. Sadove discussed “Ten Disruptors of Retail.” He should know: In addition to his work at Traub Accelerator focusing on technology and innovation, Sadove was the former chairman and chief executive officer of Saks Inc. and saw some of the early trends first-hand. His top two disruptors are omnichannel and talent. According to Sadove, omnichannel, a term that didn’t exist four years ago, is being “driven by the consumer. Whether that’s buying online and shipping to a store for pick-up or buying at the store and having it shipped home.” The disruption for retailers concerns the difficulty in moving inventory from one store to another location. That’s because retailers have traditionally kept separate inventories for online and in-store operations. Investments are needed to have systems that can share inventory information. While many of the larger chains have adapted to the new reality, the shift now has smaller business operations capable of making that same investment to their systems,

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A Date Dilemma At NYFW: Men’s

There’s a wrinkle in the planning for New York Fashion Week: Men’s this summer — the trade shows. Retailers and editors who were hoping to see runway shows and walk the trade shows at the same time in July will now need to lengthen their trip. After two years of negotiation and discussion, the Council of Fashion Designers of America this summer will launch a stand-alone showcase for American men’s fashion. New York Fashion Week: Men’s will hold its inaugural shows from July 13 to 16 at Skylight Clarkson Sq in SoHo. This is the week before the array of men’s trade shows — Agenda, Capsule, Liberty Fairs, MRket and Project — is slated to start. Originally, Project came forward and said it would change its dates to line up with the runway shows. But Project has now reverted to its original dates of July 19 to 21 to align with the other trade shows. Tommy Fazio, president of Project, explained that it was his quest to “continue to support the retailers and the brands,” that prompted the switch back. “Showing in New York City July 19 to 21 will ensure the retailers have a cohesive shopping experience. We have all come together

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SXSW Preview: The Top 10 Bands

With a packed schedule — more than 2,100 bands are playing at the festival this year — it’s getting harder and harder to stand out at Austin’s South by Southwest. Here’s our cheat sheet of the top 10 to check out.

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Alexander McQueen Launches Capsule Collection of Silk Scarves

SILK STORY: Alexander McQueen has created a capsule collection of silk scarves to mark the launch of the designer’s “Savage Beauty” retrospective at the Victoria and Albert Museum, opening on Saturday. Each scarf features one of five designs drawn from signature house creations such as the Armadillo shoes from spring 2010, and the Spray Painted Dress from spring 1999. “Our silks remain the most popular and accessible product from the house, and we wanted everyone to be able to own a memento celebrating ‘Savage Beauty,’ featuring imagery from Lee’s most memorable collections,” said McQueen’s chief executive officer Jonathan Akeroyd. The capsule collection will be available in limited runs of only 100 for each design, and the scarves will retail for $595 at the Alexander McQueen flagship on Bond Street in London and at alexandermcqueen.com.

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Jos. A. Bank Comps Decline Goes On in Q4

Jos. A. Bank’s net and comparable sales continued to slide in the fourth quarter, but parent firm The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. said both the sales associated with the acquired brand and the synergies derived from it were running ahead of schedule. The company exceeded analysts’ expectations for top- and bottom-line results in the quarter, with mid- to high-single-digit comps at its three legacy operations — Men’s Wearhouse, Moores and K&G. While Jos. A. Bank continued to backtrack on sales, with a 6.6 percent decline in comps and a 5.4 percent drop in net sales in the quarter, Doug Ewert, chief executive officer of the company, classified the performance as “above our expectations.” The process of integrating the operation has also yielded “significant progress,” said Ewert, estimating the run-rate synergies through the end of 2014 at $35 million, more than twice the target of $15 million. “In the nine months since the acquisition,” Ewert commented, “Jos. A. Bank has transitioned many of the back-office functions, began store train programs, began the work to instill its employees with the Men’s Wearhouse culture and launched tuxedo rental in all its Jos. A. Bank stores.” The company expects Jos. A. Bank comps to remain in negative territory through

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Retail Start-ups Vie for Simon Group Prize

The Simon Property Group is getting competitive on the playing field for innovation. A year ago, Simon formed the Simon Venture Group, which has compiled an investment portfolio of 12 companies and is holding a contest for outstanding retail and retail-related tech start-ups, called “Future of Retail: Meet the Disruptors.” It’s down to 10 finalists, and the winner will be determined at the South by Southwest festival in Austin, Tex., at the Decoded Fashion Mentorship Hub at the JW Marriott on Friday and Saturday. “This competition is a great event for Simon and the retail industry to showcase the future of retail, both in-store and online, as well as the convergence of digital with the physical world,” said J. Skyler Fernandes, managing director of Simon Venture Group. Decoded Fashion, an event series connecting fashion and retail brands with new technologies, is collaborating with Simon on the contest. “This competition was meant to gain visibility for the retail start-ups that could impact the future shopping experience,” said Liz Bacelar, founder and president of Decoded Fashion. The 10 finalists were selected from a field of 120 applicants. A panel of judges comprised of representatives from Simon, TechCrunch and Norwest Venture Partners will determine the winner,

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Harrods Gets Elie Tahari Shop-In-Shop

Elie Tahari has set up shop across the pond, opening a leased shop-in-shop at Harrods in London. The opening marks an expanded presence for Elie Tahari in the United Kingdom, as the brand continues its march throughout Europe. Tahari has established a leased department at Harrods on the fourth-floor Fashion Lab, representing the brand’s first concession. The design of the shop encompasses similar elements of the company’s signature design aesthetic, including midcentury furniture by Thomas Noguchi and Hans Wegner. “It’s a real shop and a real commitment. It’s a leased arrangement. We’re running the sales and the buying,” said Elie Tahari, chairman. He said they shipped the new Tahari Sport line to Harrods “and that’s doing extremely well. That’s taking off in a big way, both domestically and internationally.” Featured in the Harrods shop is imagery from the spring campaign photographed by Steven Klein with model Hilary Rhoda along a wall displaying the campaign video. The Fashion Lab launched in November 2013, designed by architect Richard Found to create the 30,000-square-foot urban fourth-floor space. There are plans to open more shops and points of sale this year. “A lot of good things are happening. There’s more international appeal,” the chairman added. Stateside, Tahari said his collection

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Givenchy Opens in Miami’s Design District

GIVENCHY HEATS UP MIAMI: Givenchy is the latest LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton brand to open in Miami’s Design District. The newest store in the brand’s retail roll out opens today with a design consistent with Givenchy’s Paris flagship, which reinterprets the boxes Hubert de Givenchy used to deliver his couture dresses as half-closed black lacquer boxes that display the collection within the store. A gold logo flanks the store’s black facade. Earlier this month, the brand opened its men’s flagship in Paris and the New York City flagship is planned for July, with a Milan store to follow.

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The Daily Front Row Goes Pay-for-Play

THE DAILY FRONT ROW’S PAY FOR PLAY: Fashion tabloid The Daily Front Row has begun employing a pay-for-play strategy, WWD has learned. Business-side representatives from The DFR have approached publishers with a deal: Namely, the DFR’s reporters will write stories if they purchase advertisements in the paper. The tabloid has ramped up this aggressive approach since 2014, according to sources with knowledge of such transactions. The DFR did not return calls or e-mails seeking comment. Although at many glossy fashion magazines the exchange between publishers over buying ads sometimes includes a nudge for editorial coverage, it has become more blatant at the DFR, insiders said. Those sources pointed to the tabloid’s media coverage, which is amped up during fashion week and during the summer. For example, Condé Nast Traveler publisher Bill Wackermann gave the paper a “Hampton’s How-to,” puff interview. Similar stories are pitched to publishers to feature their Hamptons parties or homes with the not-so-tacit understanding that they will buy an ad in exchange. Insiders also pointed to the DFR’s Feb. 14-15 issue, which features several lighter Q&As with editors from titles at Hearst and Condé Nast. In that issue, Elle’s creative director Alex Gonzalez got a three-page spread, while Hearst president

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TJX, Bluestar Eye Jones New York

TJX Cos. Inc. and brand management firm Bluestar Alliance are each interested in acquiring the Jones New York brand. The two made overtures to private equity firm Sycamore Partners last month following the announcement that operations for the brand were being shuttered. On Jan. 29, Sycamore said that it would “pursue strategic alternatives” for the business. Discussions so far are preliminary and in the explorative stage, financial and market sources said. The JNY brand was acquired by Sycamore when it bought parent company The Jones Group, formerly Jones Apparel Group, last year for $2.2 billion. The business is in wind-down mode. The brand is still being sold at retail, with the wind-down expected to conclude before the end of this year. Market sources said that Sycamore, when it bought Jones Group, placed an estimated valuation on the brand that was north of the $400 million range. The current asking price is $400 million, according to financial sources. While JNY was a sizable business occupying substantial real estate on the department store sales floor, financial sources said the shutdown of operations drops the valuation to less than $100 million, and likely substantially less than that. That’s because any buyer would be purchasing just the

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Target Culls a Special Offering for Men

Target Collective is the name of a new program launching on the discounter’s Web site on Sunday featuring six men’s brands that are made in America and represent style, authenticity, quality and craftsmanship. The nearly 90 items in the collective from brands such as Billykirk, Owen & Fred, Taylor Stitch, Duluth Pack, Locally Grown and Terrapin Stationers range in price from $10 to $270, with most items under $100, although this is still relatively high for Target. The Target Collective handle is flexible by design, sounding neither masculine nor feminine, and applicable to any number of categories. “What excites me about this program is that we’ve curated a collective of brands we think our guests will love, and we had the chance to work with them to cocreate products that will be exclusive to Target,” said Kathee Tesija, the retailer’s executive vice president and chief merchandising and supply chain officer. “As an umbrella program, Target Collective has endless possibilities and could go in any number of directions. However, to launch, we’re focused specifically on men’s brands and making these high-quality products easily accessible on target.com. “Our focus, to begin, is on target.com,” Tesija said. “We think the guests who will be attracted to

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From the Editors: WWD Launching Weekly Format

The reader comes first. That’s the bedrock on which the best journalism is built and a core value of WWD for the past 105 years. To better serve the global fashion, beauty and retail industries, WWD is about to embark on a transformation that’s a long way from the first edition of “Women’s Wear” on July 13, 1910, that told of “Mass Meetings of Manufacturers Today,” and “Talk of a Craze for Black in Paris.” On April 29, the print edition of WWD will launch in a new weekly format — with global fashion and retail news, striking photography, analysis, features, profiles, opinions and spirited coverage of the rich social and cultural scene that revolves around this creative and essential sector. The final daily print edition will be delivered on April 24. To be clear, this doesn’t mean we’re discarding daily journalism. On the contrary, we’re doubling down with an enhanced and invigorated WWD.COM where you’ll see deeper editorial content, more breaking news and more stories around the clock. As part of this evolution, we’ll continue to expand our growing domestic editorial team as well as our international staff. WWD will open new bureaus this year in China and Brazil that add to our

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Barington Capital, Macellum Advisors Urge Changes at Children’s Place

Activist hedge funds Barington Capital Group and Macellum Advisors GP have begun agitating for change at The Children’s Place Inc. The two hedge funds together beneficially own over 2 percent of the outstanding common stock of the company, which was acquired over the course of the past year. Barington has had particular experience in the retail and apparel sectors via past stakes in Collective Brands, Dillard’s, Nautica, Payless ShoeSource, Steve Madden, The Jones Group and Warnaco. Barington and Macellum sent a letter to Norman S. Matthews, chairman of The Children’s Place, on Wednesday. In the letter, the two urge the company to make changes, including, but not necessarily limited to, the possibility of a sale. They also noted their lack of confidence in the current management team. While the children’s retail chain represents an “attractive investment opportunity at its current trading valuation,” the hedge funds noted that the retailer trades at a “model valuation of 6.0x enterprise value to EBITDA.” The discounted valuation, they suggest, is due to deteriorating operating performance since 2010 under the leadership of the current chief executive officer, Jane Elfers. They said in their letter that EBITDA has declined 26 percent to $156.1 million for the 12 months ended

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