ShadeScout Makeup App Launches

The growing bevy of beauty apps offers everything from online scheduling for an at-home blowout to determining if a brand tests on animals. The newest app addresses the common refrain, “I want what she’s wearing.” ShadeScout, from FaceCake Marketing Technologies Inc., allows users to capture a shade, search a menu of brands offering the hue, virtually try it on, share with friends and even order online if they don’t choose to visit a store. “With ShadeScout, anything you see is a color that can then be tried on, whether it is a red-carpet look, a cranberry in a store or the blue sky,” explained Linda Smith, founder and chief executive officer of FaceCake. The free app, launching today for both IOS and Android, uses the camera on mobile phones or tablets to capture a coveted color. An automated Web crawler and proprietary color-search technology sifts through more than 10,000 products in the color database delivering options to match that hue from more than 40 major luxury and mass brands ranging from Laura Mercier to Revlon. Users can virtually try on the products from categories including lip, eye, blush, bronzer and foundation and then share a photo through an in-app option for feedback. There’s

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Oliver Peoples, Byredo Launch Joint Products

Pushing the boundaries of perception and partnership, Los Angeles-based luxury eyewear brand Oliver Peoples has linked with Stockholm-based fragrance house Byredo to create sunglasses and fragrance inspired by the sights and sounds of L.A. The collaboration launches at Oliver Peoples and Byredo stores as well as Barneys New York on Sunday, followed by select retailers in May. Oliver Peoples chief executive officer David Schulte and Byredo founder Ben Gorham, friends and fans of each other’s products, were looking for a way to work together when Gorham asked Schulte if he’d heard of synesthesia. “It’s the connection between senses where smell triggers a color or shape,” Gorham said. “Perfumers describe smells as colors, and a lot of musicians and artists possess it. It’s technically classified as a disorder but I’ve only heard of it in immensely creative people, so in my mind it’s a gift.” Schulte said: “I’d never heard of it, but we both thought it was a great way to translate sight into smell.” Byredo’s perfumer Jérôme Epinette and Oliver Peoples founder, designer and creative director Larry Leight set about Los Angeles, literally viewing places through various colored lenses, then created a scent and a frame to capture the sensations. “The idea

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Commodity Rolls Out Mix Bars in Sephora

Commodity is encouraging Sephora customers to make fragrances their way. Last month, the specialty beauty retailer rolled out so-called mix bars filled with eight of the niche fragrance brand’s scents to 35 locations, where shoppers can whip up fragrance cocktails from a variety of ingredients (in Commodity parlance, an Old Fashioned is concocted from its Mimosa and Whiskey scents, for example) or take their scents neat. Outside of the mix bars, almost 100 Sephora doors across the U.S. and Canada carry Commodity’s two best-selling scents, Moss and Gold. “What we were looking to do at Sephora was an interactive experience that other brands don’t currently offer. For us, it is about collections and cocktails, and finding your own unique scent,” said Ash Huzenlaub, chief executive officer of Commodity Goods Inc., adding, “Traditionally, products in fragrance are marketed by highly paid personalities. We wanted this to be about you, the consumer, and not about any famous actress or actor.” Commodity has entered Sephora at a time when niche fragrance brands have been bright spots in a fragrance segment that, on the whole, has lost luster. Artemis Patrick, senior vice president of merchandising for Sephora, said, “Sephora has a rich history of being a champion

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Brazil’s Beauty Market Up 11 Percent

MEXICO CITY — Brazil’s beauty market, the world’s third largest, grew 11 percent to 102 billion reals ($33.4 billion at current exchange) in 2014 as Brazilians continued to buy cosmetics with gusto, despite anemic economic growth in the overall economy, according to the industry lobbying group Abihpec. “This very strong growth is not surprising, despite the macro landscape we are going through,” said BTG Pactual analyst Thiago Andrade. “Gross domestic product is struggling, but that hasn’t really affected people on a day-to-day basis. Inflation is higher, but unemployment has not yet started.” A strong Brazilian beauty culture is also helping. “It’s a cultural trait,” Andrade added. “People really dedicate their wallet share to beauty.” In a down economy, for example, “women may go to the hair salon every two weeks instead of once a week and could trade down on product lines.” Despite problems suffered by some major beauty players, analysts said industry margins also remain strong, with direct sellers and multiformat retailers, such as drugstores, enjoying gross margins of more than 65 percent of sales. Regarding the crisis in the real — which has plunged to a 10-year low amid the economic woes in Latin America’s top economy — Andrade said companies import product

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George W. Bush to Be Honored at Father of the Year Awards

PRESIDENT, FATHER: The Father’s Day Council has snagged George W. Bush as this year’s honoree for its annual Father of the Year Awards. He will join Morris Goldfarb, chief executive officer of G-III Apparel Group at the event, which will be held on June 18 at the New York Hilton Hotel.

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Chanel Tests Net-a-porter Shop

LONDON — Ahead of its dive into e-commerce next year, Chanel is testing the digital waters with a shop-in-shop at Net-a-porter.com for a capsule collection of fine jewelry called Coco Crush. The six-piece collection will make its debut on Wednesday, with a digital shop-in-shop selling five rings and one cuff designed by Chanel’s Studio of Creation. The shop will remain open for three weeks after the launch before moving to Chanel stores across the globe. The pieces draw on the world of Coco Chanel and feature the brand’s signature matelassé or quilted pattern, on 18-karat white and yellow gold designs. Chanel first used the matelassé for jewelry in 1993, when it officially branched into the bijoux business. The temporary space is Chanel’s first e-commerce project, and a new concept for Net-a-porter, whose in-house team built the shop-in-shop from scratch using Cloud-based technology. The understated yet tony collection is meant to attract a wider audience and be worn in the daytime. Rings are expected to retail between 1,970 euros and 3,250 euros, or $2,133 to $3,520 at current exchange, while the cuff will go for 19,000 euros, or $20,580. “What we wanted to do was an exclusive digital launch, and we thought it was a good

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Barbara Cirkva to Exit Chanel in 2016

NEW YORK — Barbara Cirkva, division president of fashion for Chanel in the U.S., will step down from her role at the French luxury house in March 2016. Cirkva is a 28-year veteran of Chanel and considered among the luxury industry’s most highly regarded executives. She’s been a key player in maintaining the enduring appeal of the brand and spreading its popularity. The company has commenced a search for a successor. Cirkva joined Chanel in 1987 after a career at Bloomingdale’s, where she was a top merchant. She started at Chanel when its fashion business in the U.S. was in its infancy and was instrumental in dramatically growing it. In addition, Cirkva oversaw the launch and stewardship of Chanel’s watch and fine jewelry business in the U.S. “Barbara’s leadership and influence at Chanel and in the industry are recognized and respected globally,” said John Galantic, president and chief operating officer at Chanel Inc. “During her tenure at Chanel, she has continually elevated the image of the brand while balancing the interest of the business. Barbara’s leadership, deep understanding of luxury and passion for the brand are truly inspiring and will be missed.” “My career at Chanel has been one of the most exceptional experiences of

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John Varvatos to Show at N.Y.: Men’s

NEW YORK — After seven years of showing his men’s collection in Milan, John Varvatos is coming back home. The designer has revealed that he will show his spring 2016 collection in July at the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the new stand-alone showcase for American men’s fashion created by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Varvatos will close the event with a runway show on July 16. The designer’s last New York fashion show was in spring 2008. “From the time I started my brand in 2000, the timing between fashion week and the men’s wear calendar was never truly aligned,” Varvatos said. “After eight years of showing in New York, I moved my show to Milan. We’ve shown there for the past seven years and it’s been a wonderful experience and a real boost for our international growth.” But the idea of supporting the new men’s fashion week kept nagging at him, and a lightbulb finally went off in his head when he opened a flagship in his hometown of Detroit a few weeks ago. “We’re the only retailer in downtown Detroit — literally, we’re the only ones there,” he said. “But like we did on the Bowery [when

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Mother’s Day Bouquets: Fragrances to Gift

Scents are a perennial gift for mothers on their special day. Here, 12 that have withstood the test of time.

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Dior Homme Brings Fall Collection to China

HIT REPEAT: Dior Homme presented a repeat performance of its fall collection Wednesday evening at the opera house in Guangzhou, China. This is the brand’s third time presenting a runway show in China, following events in Beijing in 2013 and a 2014 show in Shanghai. “It was a privilege to return to China with our runway show. As this collection plays with codes of a techno-sartorial elegance, showing it in Guangzhou puts it in a new perspective,” said Kris Van Assche, Dior Homme’s artistic director. Similar to its Paris show, which was presented in January, the Dior Homme runway featured an orchestra — this time the Guangzhou symphonic orchestra — that played original music composed by French producer Koudlam, who made a surprise appearance that night at the Zaha Hadid-designed opera house. Chinese celebrities Dou Xiao, Zhang Huiwen and Chen Bige were also in attendance.

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American Apparel Launches Pro-Women Ad Campaign

AMERICAN APPAREL’S ONLY VICE: American Apparel’s advertising and marketing strategy to appeal to women might need to be reconsidered. In order to help remake its image following the risqué reign of founder and former chief executive officer Dov Charney, the Los Angeles-based retailer placed its first pro-women ad on the back page of Vice magazine, an odd choice to say the least. Charney was ousted last year after the ceo and the company battled numerous sexual harassment lawsuits. He was replaced by a female ceo, Paula Schneider. Since she’s taken over, the company’s sexually charged, controversial ads have been more or less sanitized. The recent ad, which reads “Hello Ladies” in block letters, depicts various smiling female American Apparel employees who are identified in a small block of text by title and first name only, along with their start date at the firm. “Women have always been in charge at American Apparel,” the ad reads. “In fact, women make up 55 percent of our global workforce (sorry, guys) and an even higher percentage of our leadership and executive roles. This structure is incredibly (and unfortunately) rare in the corporate world.” American Apparel confirmed that it only ran the ad in Vice, which isn’t

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Groh Line of Organic Hair-Care to Launch in Salons

Sometimes, the most innovative products are simply accidental side effects of scientists trying to do something else. Such is the case with Groh, a new organic antiaging hair- and skin-care line created by renowned immunologist Marvin Hausman. Hausman — who in addition to being a board-certified surgeon and immunologist is also chief executive officer and chairman of Entia Biosciences Inc., Groh’s parent company — was actually researching autoimmune disorders and neurogenetic diseases when he realized that a significant percentage of medical research deals solely with treating symptoms. He set out to change that by researching what causes cells to age and die, shifting his focus from developing drugs for companies such as Bristol-Myers International, Mead Johnson Pharmaceutical Co., and E.R. Squibb to studying medical foods and the science of nutrigenomics, the ability to affect genes through nutrition. “We were never told about nutrition in medical school,” said Hausman, who graduated from New York University’s School of Medicine in 1967, with a laugh. “I think it maybe appeared once in my biochemistry textbook.” The Hippocratic Oath’s directive — “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food” — inspired Hausman. At the top of his list: ergothioneine, an antioxidant which he

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Calypso to Launch Boho Bridal Line

NEW YORK — Calypso’s collection for boho brides, Mariee, bows Thursday with hints of Marrakech, Goa, Jaipur and St. Barths, the brand’s original stamping ground. Calypso stores on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, Los Angeles, Dallas, East Hampton, N.Y., and Bal Harbour, Fla., will carry the collection initially and it will be sold online. “Our girl is so carefree, and she’s such a free spirit that a structured bridal outfit wouldn’t be appropriate,” said Elisa Miller, the retailer’s creative director. “It’s taking what we do and bringing the artisan element and craftsmanship to the next level of beauty and enrichment.” Offerings include a strapless harem jumper embroidered with gold thread, a Battenburg lace-covered minidress and matching bell-bottom pants and a strapless long dress with hand-cut chiffon dégradé dyed feathers. The collection is priced from $275 to $2,000. “Bridal is such a natural fit for the brand,” Miller said. “It’s a natural extension because we have a distinct point of view, being bohemian and artisanal.” She said the collection “as far as the concept of it, has been in the works for a number of years.” If it sounds like some of the items would lend themselves to destination weddings, Miller said that’s the idea. While the

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Tory Burch Unveils Dodie Thayer Collection

MILAN — Tory Burch will debut the brand’s home collection in Europe and launch the Dodie Thayer for Tory Burch Lettuce Ware Collection here during the international furniture and design show, the Salone del Mobile. Burch and Wallpaper Magazine tapped British designer Bethan Laura Wood to create an artwork inspired by the Lettuce Ware collection, and the installation will be unveiled during a cocktail event on Wednesday at the designer’s new flagship in Milan’s Via della Spiga. The Florida-based, self-taught Thayer began selling her ceramics in the shape of green lettuce or cabbage leaves in the Sixties. Her customers included Jacqueline Kennedy, C.Z. Guest, the Duchess of Windsor and Brooke Astor. “I’m not afraid of color or pattern, two of my favorite [elements] and strong inspiration,” Wood said. “I loved the whole story, and I had fun researching cookbooks and recipes, and the style of entertaining from the Sixties and Seventies.” Wood explained the “main brief was to create a very celebratory” installation, “colorful, fun and playful. There was a strong connection and great fit.” The installation comprises individual canapé designs all painted by hand, with an eye on Burch’s “recent range of women’s wear,” with touches of green and mustard. Each small

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Sun Care’s New Wave

The traditional boundary between skin care and sun protection is fading faster than a summer tan. The classic tanning market is being challenged by a new breed of treatment and makeup brands that have added sun protection. Due to the increasing popularity of more versatile skin care and color cosmetics with SPF, overall sun protection posted a decline of 2 percent in 2013, falling to $1.4 billion in the U.S., according to Euromonitor Mintel reported that the sun protection and sunless category saw solid gains between 2009 and 2012, growing sales by 22 percent. However, the category is starting to struggle, with sales declining by nearly 3 percent in 2013, with only modest improvement in 2014. Mintel expects future growth to be slow, forecasting gradual gains of 7 percent total by 2019. To that end, the latest Euromonitor Sun Care Report in the U.S. read, “It is increasingly common for sun care products to include additional ingredients, such as vitamin B3 and ginkgo biloba nut extract, to provide added value, especially regarding antiaging. As a result, the distinction between skin care and sun care products is becoming increasingly blurred, and as skin care has continued to co-opt SPF and UVA/UVB protection, in addition to

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